To us, the essential kitchen herbs are as follows:
Parsley and chervil are similar in uses and attributes. We definitely
prefer the Italian flat-leaved parsley (we call it chef's parsley), as it
rarely has the bitter aftertaste that the curly variety often develops.
Chervil has more of an anise undertone, which makes it the one to use when
supplies of tarragon are low or when you want a more subtle flavor than
tarragon. Both herbs are exceptionally high in vitamins A and C.
Chives and garlic chives are also very similar, the main difference
being that chives has a mild onion flavor, like shallots, while garlic chives
has a mild garlic flavor, like elephant garlic. Another difference that the
truly fastidious host should be aware of is flower color. Chives has
pinkish-purple blooms while garlic chives blossoms are white. One would not
want the garnish to clash with the wallpaper...
French Tarragon is considered the king of the herbs. They say that a
true chef will not step foot into a kitchen without it, but we think a real
chef should be talented enough to make do without if necessary! The true
variety does not grow from seed, though seed is offered by good companies and
grown and sold by unknowing nurseries who do not specialize in herbs. Test the
plant before you buy—ask if it has recently been sprayed, and if not, take
one leaf and chew it carefully, making good contact with the tip of the
tongue. It should be strong and potent and will numb the tip of your tongue!
If you like bearnaise sauce, you like French tarragon. A good substitute in
this climate is Mexican Tarragon.
Thyme and lemon thyme are just wonderful to have around. Thymus
vulgaris goes under many names, such as English thyme and French thyme
with broader or narrower leaves according to who is describing it, but all
have very similar flavors. There is a beautiful silver-variegated variety with
good culinary properties among the hundreds of other named species of thyme.
Lemon thyme, whether green or golden-variegated, is divine. The mostly
evergreen foliage is a beautiful, lush spot in the garden, and the strong
lemon fragrance with thyme undertones does wonders for a chicken breast.
Rosemary is surely the queen of the herbs if tarragon is the king.
There are many named varieties of Rosmarinus officinalis, as well. Many
of them are good, and all are resinous, but we steer away from the ones that
smell too much like turpentine - this doesn't do much for the flavor of food.
The cultivars Salem and Arp are reputed to be the most hardy, and there is one
called Gorizia with great, broad leaves. There are also white-flowered and
pink-flowered cultivars. Rosemary is a roasting herb, its essence working
wonders in the dry heat of the oven and grill.
Mint is another herb with a large family. We think the best ones are
spearmint for iced tea and juleps, peppermint for citrus drinks, and orange
mint for hot tea. Very easy to grow and invasive if not contained or planted
far away from the rest of the garden, mint is an exception to the dry and
sandy rule. If you want a lot of it, plant it under a leaky faucet and stand
back.
Sage is the wise advisor to the royal family. Another roasting herb, it
is also good with fried foods or any fatty meat or poultry, such as duck. It
is the principle seasoning in good sausage, and makes a wonderful tea.
There are several culinary cultivars which also have exceptional ornamental
qualities - tricolor, golden, purple, and the broad-leaved Berggarten.
Savory is an underused herb in spite of its saliva-inducing name and
marvelous flavor. Its traditional use is in flavoring beans; in Switzerland it
is called bohnenkraut, the bean herb. Summer savory is an annual and it
is said to be best with fresh beans and peas. Winter savory makes a beautiful
evergreen perennial border, and is said to taste best with the dried beans of
winter. We keep meaning to experiment with it further, with other foods, but
time has a way of getting away from one...
Dill and fennel are actually quite different in character, though both
have anise tones. Both have this wonderful feathery foliage that adds texture
to the garden and is exceptional with any fish, even canned tuna. Dill seed
flavors dill pickles, of course, while fennel seed is what makes really good
Italian sausage.
Basil must be the princess. Spicy and sweet, it is about the most
tender herb there is. All varieties turn black and literally melt if the
temperature falls much below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. But what a flavor! When
you really get hooked you start using it in place of lettuce on sandwiches and
eventually you find yourself using it in place of spinach in spinach salads.
It is said that in really extreme cases, basil freaks have been found eating
ice cream with pesto sauce... There is a cultivar called Purple Ruffles that
has burgundy foliage which is truly outstanding in the gardenscape. By the
way, the variety to use as lettuce is Napolitano, which has huge crinkled
leaves.
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